![]() ![]() There is a tendency to underestimate the amount of work that goes into an electronic watch, Arnault explains, but he wants to double down on investment and expand the brand’s resources. The beauty of Vuitton, he adds, is that it can focus on the high craftsmanship of both the mechanical and electronic aspects of making smartwatches. However, unlike the independent brands or indeed Zenith, Vuitton has invested “significant resources” in the development of its own connected smartwatch, the Tambour Horizon, which he says is half of the business. Very roughly, this equates to around 25,000 pieces per annum. And he describes the core business in mechanical timepieces, up to around €12,000 per watch, as being similar to the size of LVMH stablemate Zenith. He likens his high watchmaking business to that of fellow Swiss independent brands such as FP Journe and De Bethune. LVMH, overall, reported higher-than-expected revenue of €18.4bn for the second quarter of this year - but the world’s biggest luxury group does not disclose figures for its individual luxury brands - let alone product sectors within brands. ![]() Vuitton’s watches can be found only in the brand’s 200 own boutiques, with online sales accounting for “low two figures in terms of percentage”. Initially, markets told us we would be able to sell three, now we have orders for 30.” “We’re surprised by the number of traditional collectors we recruited through that piece. “Some people say that the GPHG award is not worth much commercially, but it made a huge impact, both commercially and in terms of reputation,” he observes. Arnault is marking his first year at the helm of the brand’s watch division, having notched up two wins at the GPHG in that time - one for best diving watch and the audacity prize for its half-million-euro Carpe Diem timepiece. However, this month sees another anniversary chez Vuitton, which has already brought awards. The new model has been entered into this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) - the Oscars of the watch world. ![]() It is a 200-piece limited edition chronograph, equipped with a modified El Primero calibre from Zenith, also part of the LVMH watch stable. The brand’s signature watch design has been the Tambour - a bulbous, drum-like case shape which has been central to Vuitton’s development, and the anniversary is being marked with the Tambour Twenty. ![]()
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